THE FOUNDATION OF FASHION'S FOOTPRINT
More than 70% of a garment’s environmental impact is determined by the materials it’s made from (Source: Global Fashion Agenda, 2023). That means the fiber origin—whether it's regenerative cotton, recycled polyester, or FSC-certified viscose—isn’t just a detail. It’s the biggest opportunity for positive change.
Take two identical T-shirts: one made from conventional cotton, and the other from organic cotton grown with rain-fed irrigation. Same look, different stories. One contributes to water depletion and pesticide runoff; the other supports soil regeneration and water conservation.
Why it matters: When the fiber source is regenerative, traceable, and ethically grown, every step that follows carries less risk, less waste, and more value.
MATERIAL ORIGIN = ETHICS, NOT JUST ENVIRONMENT
In 2021, several global fashion giants faced backlash for sourcing cotton linked to forced labor in Xinjiang, China. Investigations and sanctions followed, but the damage to public trust had already begun.
Lesson: Brands without transparency into their fiber origin were forced to react under pressure. Meanwhile, those with pre-established sourcing standards—such as Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) or GOTS-certified organic cotton—could respond with data, not just statements.
Another Example: Viscose in South Asia
A 2017 report by Changing Markets exposed pollution and hazardous working conditions in viscose plants across India, China, and Indonesia. Several European brands quickly cut ties with these suppliers, reinforcing that material origin is now part of brand reputation.
CIRCULARITY STARTS BEFORE RECYCLING
Circular fashion isn't just about collecting garments at the end of life—it's about designing from the beginning with intentional materials.
• rPET vs. PET
Recycled polyester (rPET) is often considered a green solution. But in 2023, reports showed that many brands were sourcing rPET from food-grade PET bottles—disrupting bottle-to-bottle recycling systems that already function well. The result? Less circularity, not more.
• Insight:
Recycling isn't inherently sustainable. The source of recycled content matters as much as the process. If we prioritize the right inputs from the start—like textile-to-textile recycling—we build true circularity, not just a recycled label.
• Biodegradability Begins at the Fiber
Natural fibers like cotton, modal, or lyocell biodegrade much faster than synthetics—but only if they aren’t blended with plastics. Choosing biodegradable fiber origins allows brands to design garments with end-of-life in mind, a growing demand in extended producer responsibility (EPR) policies in France and Canada.
LEGISLATION IS RAISING THE STAKES
Governments are no longer waiting for voluntary improvements. They’re tying fiber origin to compliance, market access, and brand liability.
• EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR)
Enacted in 2024, this law requires all companies selling wood-derived materials—including viscose and modal—to prove their inputs are not linked to deforestation. That means geo-tagged sourcing, traceability documentation, and real-time visibility.
Failure to comply can result in penalties, product bans, or even lawsuits. Material origin is no longer just a sustainability issue—it’s a legal one.
• Carbon Border Adjustment Mechanism (CBAM)
The EU is also piloting CBAM, which taxes high-emission imports. If synthetic fibers like virgin polyester are proven to have higher embedded emissions (based on fossil fuel origin), companies may soon face financial consequences tied to their fiber choices.
